MM Holiday 2016/Winter 2017 Exhibition

MM-poster-holiday-2016

As with last year's holiday exhibition I had difficulty trying to determine a cohesive theme.  There was a ton of great releases this holiday season but they were all over the place - the usual blingy gold was trotted out for a number of items, so I thought maybe I could go that route, but there were a number of artist collabs that and other things that didn't quite fit with that.  Plus I had included a fair amount of gold for the holiday 2013 exhibition, so I scrapped it.  I just wanted a unified way to work in every item I had purchased for the Museum's collection this season, but it was proving far too complicated for my feeble brain.  Then I came across this exhibition and figured if doing a simple "recent acquisitions" exhibition was good enough for an Ivy league school, it was good enough for the Makeup Museum.  I also did a very cursory google search and to my great relief, found that many museums usually have a "recent acquisitions" exhibition on display at any given time.  While it feels like I'm phoning it in rather than coming up with a truly creative theme, lots of museums engage in this practice so I'm trying not to feel too bad about it.  And if you look at the older exhibitions here, recent acquisitions (mixed in with a few other existing items from the collection) were basically all I did for the seasonal exhibitions, so in a way I'm returning to my humble roots.

Anyway, that's enough blather.  I hope you enjoy the exhibition!

Makeup Museum holiday exhibition 2016

Makeup Museum holiday 2016 exhibition

Makeup Museum holiday 2016 exhibition

Makeup Museum holiday exhibition 2016

Top row, left to right.

I was searching for vintage Christmas makeup ads and fell in love with the cases pictured in this ad.  Needless to say I'm working on tracking down every single one.  I have 3 so far and several more in the ad are available for sale, so hopefully eventually I will have them all.  *rubs hands gleefully in anticipation*  Since they're fairly common they're not that costly either - I think the most I paid for one was $15, and the most expensive one I've seen was about $45.  This is definitely a doable acquisition.

Max Factor Hi-Society lipstick case ad, 1959

Max Factor Hi-Society lipstick case ad, 1959

Max Factor Hi-Society lipstick cases

Couldn't get the darn ad to stop curling up but didn't want to put even more holes in the wall to keep it flat, so curled it stays.

Max Factor Hi-Society lipstick case ad, 1959

You've seen the LM Ladurée brush holder from the Museum's Black Friday smackdown, but here are the other items.  Isn't that leg-shaped gloss totally bizarre?  I do love it though precisely because it's weird and also because it's perfect for the holidays in that it resembles the famous leg lamp from A Christmas Story.  In actuality, LM Ladurée claims the legs are "modeled after the beautiful legs of Merveilleuses."  Mmmkay.

LM Ladurée holiday 2016

I felt so bad cramming all of the items onto one shelf but I really wanted them all together and felt like I couldn't NOT display all of them.

LM Ladurée holiday 2016

The Shu Uemura x Murakami items:

Shu Uemura x Murakami holiday 2016

Shu Uemura x Murakami holiday 2016

MM label

One of Suqqu's 2 holiday sets.  I really like the work of the jewelry designer they collaborated with.  :)

Ayaka Nishi for Suqqu, holiday 2016

Ayaka Nishi for Suqqu, holiday 2016

MM label

Second row, left to right.

There were so many holiday collections I didn't get a chance to cover before I posted the exhibition, one of which was the Dior Splendor collection.  I hope to get to this collection and other ones shortly...when I do I'll add the blog links.  :)

Dior holiday 2016

Dior holiday 2016

Marcel Wanders for Cosme Decorte:

Marcel Wanders for Cosme Decorte 2016

Marcel Wanders for Cosme Decorte 2016

MM label

Guerlain Météorites Perles de Légende...didn't write about this one either.  I also just realized I completely forgot to include a print out of the gorgeous promo image that accompanied the collection.  #exhibitiondesignfail  Well, maybe I'll update it after the holidays.

Guerlain Météorites Perles de Légende

Guerlain Météorites Perles de Légende

MM label

The amazing Clé de Peau collection in collaboration with Ashley Longshore...too bad I couldn't fit everything on one shelf!  I did consider doing 2 shelves to fit the whole collection but that would mean abandoning other items I wanted to include, so ultimately I made peace with not having the whole collection on display.

Clé de Peau holiday 2016

Clé de Peau holiday 2016

MM label

Third row, left to right.

NARS Sarah Moon:

NARS x Sarah Moon

MM label

Maquillage Snow Beauty compact:

Maquillage Snow Beauty 2016

MM label

Estée Lauder Wish Upon a Star compact:

Estée Lauder Wish Upon a Star compact

Estée Lauder Wish Upon a Star compact

MM label

YSL Sparkle Clash edition Touche Eclat and Lancome Petit Trésor eyeshadow...I REALLY wanted the Sparkle Clash lipstick but it sold out in minutes.  I had Sephora notify me when it was restocked and missed it a second time, that's how fast it went!

YSL Sparkle Clash edition Touche Eclat and Lancome Petit Trésor eyeshadow

Bottom row, left to right.

I love this 1942 Coty Sleigh Bells compact!  I came across it last year but held off purchasing it for some unknown reason, so I made sure to snatch it up this year.  This particular one was in great condition a - a little pricey but worth it.  Unfortunately I couldn't track down the original ad so this is a printout of an image I found online.

Coty Sleigh Bells compact, 1942

Coty Sleigh Bells compact, 1942

Ah, the precious Givenchy Le Rouge Kyoto lipstick cases.  I believe this is the first time I put them on display.  I added the more recent Prisme Libre loose powder since I think it was designed in collaboration with the same artist who created the lipstick cases.

Givenchy Le Rouge Kyoto lipstick cases

Givenchy Le Rouge Kyoto lipstick cases

MM label

Kanebo Milano 2017 compact...so feminine and pretty as usual.

Kanebo Milano 2017

MM label

Finally, the divine Chanel Ombres Lamées:

Chanel Ombres Lamées

Chanel Ombres Lamées

MM labels

So that concludes the holiday 2016/winter 2017 exhibition.  Shine bright and be cozy!


Curator's Corner, 1/15/2017

CC logoWelcome to the first link round up of the new year.  Enjoy.  :)

- Still obsessed with hygge...as it turns out you can incorporate this concept into your beauty routine.

- Maybelline is following in Cover Girl's progressive footsteps with their new male spokesperson.  But, as I've surmised in passing before, is marketing makeup to men really so forward-thinking or just a money grab?

- Would love to see this new perfume museum!

- Here are the latest scoops on Bobbi Brown and Pat McGrath - totally different styles but both so influential.

- Broadly covers dumpster diving for makeup (interestingly, this isn't a new practice).

- Smart hairbrushes are the new smart mirrors.

- Big thumbs up to these women.

- Loved this collection of hair product ads from the '80s and '90s

The random:

- Check out my favorite band doing some amazing covers on New Year's Eve, plus I can't wait for their live album.

- If Gudetama is my spirit mascot, Aggretsuko is my husband's.

- In '90s nostalgia, Wayne's World will be back in select theaters for its 25th anniversary, Cosmo takes a look back at the fashion from the 1999 Golden Globes, and you can also create your very own Big Kahuna burger from Pulp Fiction.

- In other pop culture news, I'm dying to see this movie.  Normally I'm not into musicals but this one centers on evil mermaids - how bad could it be?

- Must be nice to have $1 billion to build your own museum.  Sigh.

- Could you imagine picking up your prescription in this pharmacy?!

How's 2017 treating you thus far?


Back to the zodiac with Ziegfeld Girls

You might remember around this time last year I explored some great Elgin zodiac-themed compacts, along with Estée Lauder's lovely Erté zodiac compact series.  The zodiac seems quite popular as a decorative motif for compacts, since I came across yet more vintage zodiac compacts since then.  Tangentially related (obviously) to the popular Ziegfeld Follies, Ziegfeld Girl compacts made their debut in the early 1940s.  Collecting Vintage Compacts has an incredibly thorough history of the Ziegfeld Girls line so I implore you to go check it out when you have a chance.  Since my research skills are nowhere near on par with that blog's author I will just provide a brief summary of his amazing findings about these compacts.  The creator of Ziegfeld Follies, Florenz Ziegfeld, passed away in 1932; however, his enterprising widow licensed the rights to his name for use to other companies.  In the early '40s, a man named Walter Crane joined a plastics company owned by Dwight Hirsh.  These two businessmen got the idea to manufacture plastic compacts (a natural choice for material given the company's business and also because it was wartime) and somehow managed to secure the rights to the Ziegfeld name.  Crane filed a patent application for compacts in late 1943.  Several different types of Ziegfeld Girl compacts were produced prior to the zodiac series' introduction in 1946.  These were, sadly, a flash in the pan - they didn't sell well and were gone by 1947.

Now let's get to the compacts, shall we?  I found the designs to be so utterly charming - a different sort of playfulness than the Elgin ones, to be sure, but adorable nevertheless.  Like the Elgin compacts, however, these tend to be snapped up rather quickly once they pop up for sale.

I was unable to find an image of the actual compact for Aquarius, but you can see it in this ad.

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact ad, February 1946

While encased in not-so-luxurious lucite, each one matches the sign's color. 

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact - Capricorn
(image from worthpoint.com) 

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact - Pisces
(image from ebay.com) 

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact - Aries
(image from etsy.com)

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact - Taurus
(image from etsy.com) 

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact - Gemini
(image from ebay.co.uk)

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact - Cancer
(image from etsy.com)

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact - Leo
(image from etsy.com) 

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact - Virgo
(image from etsy.com)

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact - Libra
(image from ebay.com)

The one I'm most excited about, naturally, is the Scorpio one.  Not only did one of these compacts come up for sale after me keeping an eye out for many months, but it's also my sign. I couldn't believe my good luck!  You better believe I pounced as soon as I got that Ebay alert.

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact - Scorpio

I have to say that the accompanying scorpions in depictions of the Scorpio sign creep me out a little.  I'm definitely a Scorpio personality-wise, but strictly from a design perspective I wish I were a Capricorn or Sagittarius.  Both are traditionally represented as mythical creatures - Capricorn is sort of a mermaid but with a goat head and Sagittarius is like a centaur.  Scorpions (and crustaceans for that matter - lobsters, crabs, shrimp, etc.), just look like big gross bugs to me.  :P  Oh well, I can't change my sign, right?

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact - Scorpio

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact - Scorpio

Anyway, these compacts are positively ginormous.  Here's a comparison photo with a Guerlain Météorites container so you can get a sense of the scale.

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact - Scorpio

Sadly, I was also unable to find a photo of the Sagittarius compact, so I found an ad for that one as well.

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact ad, May 1946

Speaking of ads, they were really cool to look at.  Just for fun here are some more.

I wish the compact I bought came with the little horoscope insert mentioned in this ad.

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact ad, March 1946

Perfect for that glamorous cousin Gloria!  LOL.

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact ad, November 1946

I liked this one not only since it features my sign but also because it shows all the different designs as well as an illustration of the horoscope insert.  This must have been from the official launch of the compacts, since it's from early 1946 and mentions special window displays. 

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girl compact ad, January 1946

And a sad sale ad a little over a year later.

Ziegfeld Zodiac Girls ad, April 1947
(images from newspapers.com)

Finally, a funny zodiac-related story: indicating just how obsessed I am with zodiac symbols and decor, a month or so ago I dreamed that Stila released their own zodiac palettes.  They were the same size and shape as the Look of the Month calendar palettes from 2004, and made of cardboard, but each had a Stila girl representing a zodiac sign instead of the month.  The zodiac glyphs were a continuous border around the edge of the palette.  For example, the Scorpio sign looks like a little M with a tail, so that was the border for my sign.  The Stila girls themselves were ridiculously cute...if I had any Photoshop or illustration skills I'd totally do a mockup!  I can see each design clear as crystal in my head but have no means of sharing them, sadly.  I remember being so happy at seeing Stila going back to their roots.

Anyway, did you like the Ziegfeld Zodiac Girls?  What's your sign and did you like the design for yours?


The rainbow connection: Shiseido 7 color powders centennial revival edition

While color correcting seems like a new trend, my experience as a self-taught makeup historian tells me that it probably existed decades ago.  However, I had no idea that color correcting was in effect as early as 1917, when Japanese company Shiseido introduced their "rainbow" face powders.  In honor of the 100-year anniversary of this cutting-edge beauty development, Shiseido released the 7 Color Powders Centennial Revival Edition (that's a mouthful!), which is essentially a re-creation of the original powders using contemporary color correcting technology and ingredients.  The powders come in a gorgeous keepsake box adorned with concentric metallic rainbow lines. I am very fortunate to have such a kind and generous husband who procured this set for me for Christmas. :)

Shiseido 7 Color Powders Centennial Revival Edition

Shiseido 7 Color Powders Centennial Revival Edition

Shiseido 7 Color Powders Centennial Revival Edition

Does anyone know what this means? 

Shiseido 7 Color Powders Centennial Revival Edition

I always get positively giddy over a numbered edition.  In the eyes of a collector, numbering makes the item seem really special...even if there are 9,000 of them produced!

Shiseido 7 Color Powders Centennial Revival Edition

Shiseido 7 Color Powders Centennial Revival Edition

Shiseido 7 Color Powders Centennial Revival Edition

Shiseido 7 Color Powders Centennial Revival Edition

The box design is nearly identical to the original.  Shiseido was ahead of its time back then not just for product innovation but also for packaging.  Chapter 3 of an excellent dissertation entitled "Imperial Designs:" Fashion, Cosmetics, and Cultural Identity in Japan, 1931-1943" by Rebecca Nickerson sheds light on the design process.  In 1915 Shiseido's founder, Fukuhara Arinobu, unofficially passed ownership of the company to his son, Fukuhara Shinzo, who had been traveling domestically and abroad to study art and photography for a number of years prior.  The younger Fukuhara used his passion for art and aesthetics to form an official cosmetics division for the company and in 1916, he appointed a design team consisting mostly of artist friends he had met during his travels to create sophisticated, appealing packaging for all of Shiseido's products.  The creation of such a group, focused on cohesive design and marketing, was cutting-edge for the time.  Their artistic skill proved quite effective: "The design team came up with unique packaging for the face powder.  Each of the seven colors was in its own original eight-sided, white satin box, and the lids were embossed with two concentric gold lines and Shiseido's camellia logo.  Above the logo were the words 'poudre de riz', the French term for face powder, and below it in Roman letters, 'Shiseido, Tokyo'.  The package design was simple yet sophisticated and conveyed a sense of the foreign, which was exactly what Fukuhara wanted consumers to associate with the Shiseido brand. This was Shiseido's second attempt to introduce Western face powders to Japanese consumers.  While most women could not afford or had little interest in Western face powders in 1906, by 1917 consumption was on the rise and greater numbers of women were eager to embrace this new trend in beauty culture.  The flood of modern Western culture, Hollywood films, and a general enthusiasm for 'Americanism' also increased demand for modern fashion and cosmetics.  Shiseido was one of a number of companies to introduce similar face powders around this time, and the 'Rainbow Face Powder' succeeded in making Shiseido a visible player in the cosmetics market." (p. 103).

Shiseido 7 color face powder centennial edition

I was so hesitant to try to peel off one of the seals to open the box, but I managed to do so without ripping it.

Shiseido 7 color face powder centennial edition

For comparison's sake, here are photos of the original powders and you can see more pictures of them from the Shiseido Museum here.  I think the only differences are that the new revival ones are covered in a fabric material whereas the old boxes seem to be made from cardboard (I don't think it was satin), and the camellia logo is at the top of the powder covering in the revival versions - the originals don't seem to have the logo on the inside.  I'm guessing the old ones didn't have the color-coded seals on the boxes either.

Shiseido vintage rainbow powders(image from davelackie.com)

Anyway, why were these so groundbreaking?  Well, besides the design, colored face powder didn't really exist back then.  I've mentioned this excellent paper from art historian (ahem) Gennifer Weisenfeld before, but here's another excerpt explaining why these were a breakthrough: "Tinted face powders were exceedingly rare in prewar Japan and Shiseido pioneered them early on with a series of colors under the brand name Poudre de Riz. The female entertainers (geisha) who worked in nearby Shinbashi and who were loyal Shiseido customers particularly liked the green and purple powder colors because they were thought to flatter the complexion under electric lighting."  Not only did these powders have color correcting ability in less than ideal lighting conditions, Shiseido maintains they were a way for women to "match their face powder shade to their attire."  This was in keeping with the shift towards more Western styles and a desire for more natural looking makeup.  "Gradually, as Japanese cosmetic practices changed over time and moved toward a greater naturalism, the traditional thick white cosmetic foundation (o-shiroi) ceased to be used for daily wear." Finally, the rainbow powders, quite simply, were among the first steps in customized makeup that encompassed a much wider range of colors than were available previously.  This in turn allowed Shiseido to reach a significantly greater portion of the cosmetics market, since the colors could be mixed to suit one's skin tone. Says Jessica Guerra, author of "Consumerism, Commodification and Beauty: Shiseido and the Rise of Japanese Beauty Culture" (another fantastic scholarly piece!), "Through different combinations of the seven provided colors, consumers could create their own shades and color palettes. Understandably, this would mean increased international appeal and marketability as racially diverse consumers could purchase Seven Colors Face Powder and create their own personalized shades based on preference." (p. 29).  Indeed, even today Shiseido touts the customization ability of the revival powders, noting that they also give one "the freedom to experiment and create the most beautiful finish for your skin."

Shiseido hadn't completely abandoned the idea of reviving their rainbow powders until now.  I couldn't read this whole article because it's behind a paywall (thanks, jerks), but apparently in late 2001 the company released a rainbow powder available only to their Camellia Club members:  "Shiseido has resurrected a face powder-Rainbow Face Powder-that debuted in 1917 but in a way geared to the woman of the 21st century. The debut product featured seven colors-white, yellow, flesh, rose, peony, green, and purple-instead of the typical white to offer women the shade that best enhanced their facial features and to create an appearance more suited to the increasingly popular Western-style fashions. Renamed La Poudre Ruisselant, the face powder is sold in specially designed container with lids shaped like a camellia blossom-the symbol of Shiseido."  I tried my darndest to find a photo of this "specially designed container" but only turned up a picture of the refill.

Shiseido Poudre Ruisselante refill
(image from honoaka-japan.jimdo.com)

While I couldn't find a photo, I do think it's interesting to note that Shiseido tried revamping their rainbow powders previously.  Maybe in 2001 the makeup world at large wasn't yet receptive to color correcting and that's why Shiseido offered the Ruisselante powder to only a handful of consumers.  But as color correcting has been all the rage for the past couple of years, now is a great time to re-introduce these to the public, not to mention the fact that it syncs perfectly with the 100th anniversary of the products' debut.  I love how they updated the packaging too - very similar to the original but just enough details to make it modern and special enough to commemorate the anniversary.  I'm still drooling over the shiny rainbow on the box, and the numbering...well, that's like collector's catnip. 

What do you think of this set?  Do you color correct at all?  I do but with liquid or cream concealer rather than powder. :)

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What's in store for 2017

Part of my duties as a Makeup Museum curator is keeping track of the seemingly hundreds of trends that pop up throughout a given year.  I do sort of track them via Curator's Corner and prefer to do an end-of-year roundup, but I just didn't have it in me for 2016.  Instead, I'm going to play psychic and attempt to predict what's ahead for 2017, or at least what I want to see this year.  I'm hopeful that parody videos are the death knell for contouring, but unfortunately I think my other least favorite trends that were all the rage in 2016 - liquid lipstick and "athleisure" makeup - will be continued throughout 2017.  Because I'm immensely sick of those already, I'm only going to explore the continuing trends I'm actually looking forward to.  ;)

1.  We haven't seen the last of weird lip colors. 

A ton of odd lip colors arrived in 2016, most of which I purchased (and got brave enough to wear in public!)  I don't want to spend too much time reporting on the unconventional lip color trend since I've already covered it and plan to provide an update to my original post in the next few months, but I will say that strange colors are still going strong.  I just hope they're not only in liquid lipstick form, as we're seeing from Kat Von D and Urban Decay.

Urban Decay liquid lipstick
(image from @urbandecay)

2.  2016 = year of the cushion compact; 2017 = year of the primer.

It seemed like every makeup company released a cushion product of some kind last year.  This year primers are the must-get-to-market item.  Primers have been coming and going for years, but 2017 seems to be a whole new era of this humble necessity.  Urban Decay and NARS are both revamping their primer lineup, while Becca and Dior are both releasing new primers as part of their spring collections.  Smashbox is also coming out with new eye primers.

NARS primers
(image from chicprofile.com)

3. Glitter and rainbows will stick around.

Glitter seemingly covered everything in 2016, from jeans and sneakers to grout. (Um, I think I need to re-grout my bathroom, stat.)  But where it really shined was the beauty sphere, where we saw it on eyeshair, and, thanks to the genius of Pat McGrath's Lust 004 kits, the lips.  It even covered the whole face, which you could apply with glittery makeup brushes.  Guessing from Stila's spring 2017 liquid glitter shadows and Jerrod Blandino of Too-Faced dropping hints about a glitter liner, I don't think this trend is going anywhere soon.

Stila Magnificent Metals spring 2017
(image from musingsofamuse.com)

Rainbows also colored our world in 2016, (so many rainbow highlighters!) along with their iridescent and holographic cousins.  So far the trend seems to be continuing with Shiseido's new rainbow face powders (which are actually 100 years old - more about that in an upcoming post), NYX's duo-chrome highlighters and yet another rainbow highlighter.

Shiseido 7 Color Powders Revival Centennial Edition
(image from shiseido.com)

4. Along those lines, mermaids are the new unicorns.

While mermaid blankets, news of the Splash remake and several companies' mermaid-inspired eye shadows all somewhat bolstered support for these magical creatures in 2016, the year primarily belonged to unicorns.  Not one but two companies introduced lip colors named Unicorn Tears, while unicorn brushes and the not-so-appealingly-named Unicorn Snot glitter gel also helped carry the trend (along with the holographic/iridescent/glitter trend), not to mention unicorn horns and eyeliner.  There was even a unicorn cafe (it's not clear whether they served unicorn hot chocolate.) But I'm predicting - okay, I just REALLY want it to happen - that mermaid beauty will take center stage in 2017.  If these brushes are any indication, mermaids will finally have their day in the beauty sun.  Ironically, the company responsible for these is named Unicorn Lashes - obviously the same one that released the aforementioned unicorn brushes.

Mermaid brushes
(image from popsugar.com)

There's also the rainbow highlighter I mentioned above, which for once is named Mermaid and not Unicorn something-or-other.  :)

Lottie London Mermaid highlighter(image from @mylottielondon)

What do you think of these?  Any other predictions?

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